Yup kids. That’s what they called London when they were setting up for an Ancient Bloodline and they were still feeling rather backwoods to the Continent.
Did you miss me, dear reader? (Actually, readerS. I have four official followers now!! Now I just need to collect disciples and I can start a new religion!) It’s been little over a week since I last wrote and I’m sure you’re all desperate to know what I’ve been up to. (Of course you’re not, you’re busy people. But you’re my captive audience, so pretend you are.) Anyway. Have I been up to things? Yes, loads. So much so that sometimes I feel I need to spend a whole WEEK staring at a wall in my bedroom and recovering.
The thing is, I know my time is limited, and I’m living in a FABULOUS city that has about 5 million different wonderful options to pursue Every. Single. Day. And being the obsessive perfectionist I am, AND because I love adventures, I want to do it all. Simultaneously. I can see this is going to be the major hurdle to overcome while I’m here. Because I both long to hunt up every scrap of paper in England that has ever mentioned pageantry and the Thames, plus every bit of interesting Old Stuff also lying around (seriously, see last post. I LOVE old things. You know that Atwood book (Lady Oracle?) where her main character’s lover thinks she’s having an affair because she’s so obsessed with the various fascinating oddments in Portobello Market that she sneaks off there for hours every day? That would be me.) In the meantime, there are pubs, shops, teashops, galleries, shows, historical sites and parks which are all calling my name. And the River. SO, I have been keeping a schedule that runs from about 8am (out the door) to 1:30am (in bed but probably still reading and/or plotting what to do tomorrow), because, yes, in case you’re wondering, I’m still pouring lovingly over old books and maps at the library every day as well. I stay at the Library until 5pm, then take off to walk along the river or visit one of the many lovely churches in the downtown core. Then it’s errands and home, quick dinner, out to a pub or show, home to skype my dearly beloveds and finally bed. Repeat.
Now perhaps you have more energy than I do and scoff at my limping pace, but I don’t think I can keep this up forever. My problem is that I need to be up early to catch the archives, but I am physically incapable of going to sleep early. So my sleeping hours get shorter all the time. The other day I felt so exhausted and discombobulated (K, wasn’t this like, our favourite word find in high school?), that I simply stayed home and brought the inner chaos into order by cleaning, organizing and decorating my room.
Anyway, I plan to burn the candle at both ends for as long as I can. This may mean that by the time I return to Canada, I am catatonic with information overload, but you’ll put up with me, right? SO, I have, since arriving….
Wandered along a fair chunk of the Thames (and documented its infinite variety obsessively in endless photos), and London. Partially in an attempt to teach myself how not to get lost *quite* so often. Checked out Camden Market. And by the way, I am IN LOVE with Camden Market. It and Portobello Market are my truest of loves here. It has everything I love best. Antiques, fascinatingly patterned tights, cheap quirky clothing, a bewildering array of food, and just… a general atmosphere that I love. It’s like what Kensington Market is trying to be, but three times the size with three times the amazing stuff and people. Plus you can take your food and eat along the canal. Poked around there one afternoon until my head nearly exploded with joy and over-stimulation. Was in very great danger of buying THE ENTIRE MARKET. Luckily, my wired money hadn’t come through yet, so I didn’t dare by anything but vitamins. But next time, heaven help me. I may singled-handedly resuscitate the stumbling UK economy. Last Sunday I rambled around Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, and by the way, when stumbling around London, do you ever suddenly get the unmistakable feeling that Queen Victoria is watching you? Well She IS.
And Albert.
Creepy. Stumbled across his memorial in the midst of the stereotypical English parkland and wondered if I’d accidentally transported myself to some bizarre mash-up of Ancient Rome and Renaissance Florence. A little to Popish for proper Victorian Protestants. The puritans would totally flip.
Looked at the Tudor portraits in the National Portrait Gallery (Oh Henry VIII, you weren’t all that bad-looking until you got that leg injury and became an overweight crazy-pants), and stopped upstairs for tea and scones (scones AMAZING. Hot and crumbly apple-raisin, with clotted cream, naturally. Tea, not so. Fine, but K, I think Secret Garden still wins for cream teas. Although, I admit I was a bit frazzled by the time I got there, so perhaps I didn’t do it justice).
When I am not having Important Cultural Experiences, I am meeting the other Shakespeare/Ren people at King’s College (they’re all lovely) and catching up with the various friends I have known that happen to be in London now. For example, my good friend Sean was in town the week I arrived with his band, Blood Ceremony (currently on their European tour), so naturally I had to go say hi. They were AWESOME and their fans were super adoring which is really great to see. If you happen to have a love for bands who pay loving and playful homage to Black Sabbath, and seventies euro-vampire films, you should definitely check them out.
Meanwhile, D is working on an album of her own, and I’m having a great time watching her work with photographers and makeup artists as she and A craft a music video for her songs. Seriously, why didn’t I come up with a career that required me to dream up awesome costumes to wear and get photographed in them? Clearly made the wrong choice there. Definitely hoping I get to see her perform her own stuff somewhere official before I leave (although it’s also just great to have someone around the house who plays the piano fabulously.
Um, what else? Went out to Soho the other night with D and her sassy friend from the Savoy, and discovered that when people are out dancing here, they sometimes buy each other a round of Champagne. Of the fancy kind. Apparently that’s a thing. Kinda hilarious. Also the club was playing all the nineties standbys, so it was kinda like being back in undergrad in some sort of alternate reality that didn’t involve cheap beer and paralyzers (how did I ever drink that?).
D and A have been introducing me to their favourite pubs, and I had a very Educational Experience the other day involving cider, mould and ginger beer. Let’s just say, cider here is more deadly than it appears, and if your stomach feels a little rocky the next morning, DON’T try to settle it with mouldy toast. Admittedly, the mould part was never part of the plan, but take it from me, it does NOT help. Ginger beer, on the other hand, is magical, magical stuff and everyone should ALWAYS have some, cuz it totally saved the day for me. Also, I have learned my lesson and will stick to whiskey from now on.
And now it’s time for a Things I Love About England Moment:
I’ve being paying tribute to Marks and Spensers. It will always hold a special place in my heart since we had it in Victoria until I was about 11, and I had some of my favourite early dresses from there. But their food is what’s so exciting here. English food in general, like everything else, fascinates me. Like, you can get boil-in-a-bag kippers!! It sounds kinda revolting (not the kippers, my Newfie Grandpa used to give me them on toast), but also fascinating, so naturally I want to try it. And Lemon curd, and oh, many things. Like, “Christmas Pudding Wine.” Does it taste like Christmas pudding, or does it go with it? Is it worth £20 to find out? Marmite I’ve tried, and honestly, I don’t hate it. Black pudding I’m still working up to. I will try most anything once (as long as it’s not bugs), but…well, technically I have tried it. Once. And it wasn’t a good experience. When I was living in France my host mother made it. Without telling what it was, she stuffed a spoonful in my mouth and asked me if I recognized it. There was something about the metallic, salty taste that seemed vaguely familiar but I couldn’t place it. Her response: Pointing to a vein in her arm, “C’est le sang!” To make this all the more dramatic, and my mental image all the more revolting, she’d just been describing the blood test she’d had that morning in graphic detail, so suddenly I had the impression that I was eating HER blood. Fantastic. Haven’t tried it since.
Oh and TEA. Just as France ruined the North American pastry for me forever, England is utterly spoiling me for tea in the NA café/resto. Having always been a tea snob, how wonderful it is to get a half decent cup for cheap no matter WHERE you go? Wonderful enough to write a hymn about it. Or design an Entire Map Dedicated to Tea Drinking. Which Winston Churchill DID for the Brits to cheer them up in 1940, during that unfortunate little incident with the Blitz. Really. A map of how tea sustains people the world over. And it accidentally calls Vancouver Island Vancouver. AND it’s for sale in the BL shop. All of which makes me more happy than I can possibly say. How long can I resist purchasing this gem? Only time will tell.
Why Real Life Often Confuses me and Seems Less Plausible than Fiction: A Study
Sitting around with friends the other night, we were discussing how everyone who’s anyone is getting kidnapped by pirates in Africa right now. Now this is horrible, both the economic circumstances that set this up and for the victims involved, and I would NEVER want it to happen to anyone (apparently there are over 300 people being held as hostages even as we speaking). BUT, as G and I were discussing the other night, when you say the word “pirates” my head goes to a very different place. I CANNOT take the word seriously. I instantly think of Muppet Treasure Island and Errol Flynn and I’m all like, ooh, pirates! YAY! They’ll kidnap me, we’ll sing a song about cabin fever on the bounding main, Johnny Depp will drop by for whiskey, someone will have a pet anteater called Flaubert and I’ll finally get to learn how to fence. Before I know it I’m smiling dreamily and planning my pirate wardrobe. Which is terrible, and G and I would both like to petition that we come up with another word for these people. Because Hollywood has totally skewed my sense of reality, even though I know that both pirates now and Ye Olde Swashbuckling ones were horrible, and richly deserved to be drowned by three tides, chained to the Thames riverbed. Okay, no they didn’t. Nobody does. But that’s what they did, AND I saw it yesterday (the spot not the pirates, although OOH PIRATES… wait… here we go again…) when I took my three hour tour up river to see the flood gates and Greenwich Meantime, and they pointed it out.
AND the pub across the river where the naval officers responsible for their arrest would have a pint and watch them drown. Reportedly. Doesn’t surprise me. People in general are horrible when it comes to stuff like that. Just look at all the pictures of Dead Gaddafi. I mean seriously, is this Ancient Rome? Why don’t we put his head on a spike and skip around a bonfire and be done with it? But anyway. Pirates. Find a new name. This is your task for this week.
And the Thames was as gorgeous as can be in the sunshine, and I had a lovely and entirely research appropriate time. And froze myself solid cuz I refused to go below deck to get warm in case I might miss something. And got so irritable about it all that I started grumpily thinking to myself that I didn’t really see what the big deal is about the damn river that everyone from Kipling to Woolf to P.D. James and Sansom can’t stop writing about it (Sansom seems particularly obsessed with describing the E. Mod. River, and yes, even in my downtime I am reading mystery novels that reference the Thames. Because I am THAT dedicated). Now, after I warmed up I confessed to myself that I was probably just hypothermic and tired, but, can I confess a heresy? The River Thames doesn’t fascinate me. What has been done on and along it fascinates me. That people seem endlessly rhapsodic about it fascinates me. The river: not so much. Maybe I’m just being a North American Snob here, but, yeah, so what, it’s big, it’s tidal, it can be treacherous. Couldn’t it at least manage a waterfall or a rapid or two? I mean, you want to see spectacular rivers, go to BC. Or Quebec. Like the Duke of Queensbury, I can’t help thinking sometimes, “"What is there to make so much of in the Thames? I am quite weary of it: there it goes, flow, flow, flow, always the same."
Apropos nothing, had crazy dream about fighting a a giant lion on the Heath, defending the other walkers with the fire-poker battleaxe, and awoke in a sweat having slashed the lion’s tongue (didn’t want to kill it, but it wanted to revenge or something, and anyway I felt terribly guilty about the whole thing).
Now what makes this interesting, is that apparently the super rich of England’s favourite thing to do in the eighties was keep large jungle cats. But recently the laws changed and they had to give them up. Did they turn them in to zoos? Oh no, they just released kitty into the English wild. So to speak. D has just informed me that there has been a “big cat” sighting in the last couple of days on the Heath. Awesome. Also, I’m psychic.
I frequently visit Hampstead Heath and I love it in all its moods. It always provokes fits of philosophical musings on Mortality and Destiny in me – they take me like sudden agues. Something about wandering around the same wild land that I know Keats, Freud and countless others paced, and leaving as little trace as they. Came across this house over a rise and felt very Elizabeth Bennet for a moment.
I like to go up to Kite hill and watch the skyline of the city. Legend has it Guy Fawkes planned to watch the explosion of Parliament from here, and it would be a perfect spot. This morning, I actually say Parrots. Or parakeets? I’d been pretty sure I’d been seeing them, but I finally got a picture.
They seem to run wild on the Heath. I don’t know how they survive, but then there’s a number of things scampering around the Heath that shouldn’t really be there (See above). I am beginning to see a pattern in fact. I think there is a secret plan in the UK to transform itself into a Tropical Paradise, in time for the polar ice dissolution. A tells me tigers or something have been sighted in Wales. Can you imagine if I see one there? I’ve been to places that actually HAVE tigers in the wild, so how hilarious would it be if I’m poking around the seashore in Wales, being all broody and Arthurian, and I happen to see a tiger stalk by?
I see quite a lot of English wild things out this way too. Foxes, swans, Kestrels and so on. Apparently history records that Richard I brought swans to England as gift from Queen Beatrice of Cyprus, and I’ve no doubt he did, but they can’t have been the first swans, or the Saxons wouldn’t have been going around calling their mistresses “Swan-neck” all the time. Ooh, and an owl flew directly over my head the other day and I thought irresistibly of Harry Potter. And how much do I love the foxes? They always seem so apologetic, glancing back over their shoulders at me as they lope away. I keep wanting to befriend them, so we can have melancholy-wise discussion when I leave about how becoming unique to one another in all the world has done us both good, although we shall cry…
By the way popped by Trafalgar square the other day, and saw THIS atrocity. Apparently in aid of a "fan rally" for football.
Poor Trafalgar lions, eclipsed by an inflatable bear. The lions are wonderful. Maybe it’s something to do with my early obsession with Narnia (oh, and by the way, apparently the Heath is supposed to be CS Lewis’ inspiration for Narnia. So I am literally wandering around the land just past Ward Robe and Spare Oom Every DAY.), but the lions always make me want to climb up between their paws and go to sleep. I feel like this happens in one of the books (K?). SEE how I’ve been brainwashed by early literature? Yes, I know, I’m crazy. We’d already established that, right?
Anyway, it’s long past time for me to Shut Up. I have overstayed my welcome in a tres posh Italian café in Hampstead Village, where all the poshest of the posh people seem hang out, and must away cuz we’re off to Richmond for D’s birthday this afternoon.
George Michael sightings: Still Zero
PS Though my roommates have seen Boy George twice this week, so that must count for something, right?
Kisses and Kippers